Sekou Soriya

It’s quite astonishing the difference that an arbitrary line can make. Well, not arbitrary. In this case a border. Even still, surprising. I’ve spent the last two days in Sekou Soriya, Guinea. Things seem to be happening here. Perhaps, post cleanse, I’m back to feeling 100% so my outlook has improved. Or perhaps I am just enamored with the beautiful Kuru Hills. But I think there might be something more going on, and (lucky for me) the purpose of me being here is to find out.

 We drove to Sekou Soriya in the early morning, it was cooler, and there was a pleasant breeze. We drove in from Madina Oula, and the road was somehow better. Still rough, but I didn’t have to hold on the entire ride, and my seat belt actually had some give for part of the ride (as opposed to being locked in place). Since I did not have to spend the ride trying to avoid banging my head into something, I was able to actually look out the window, and take in the view. And what a view. I was able to enjoy the sun rising over the mountains (the Kuru hills) as cattle blinked at me from behind trees. I even enjoyed the little children who came running full speed to point and shout, “Fotay! Fotay! Fotay! Fotay!”(People keep yelling this at me. I wonder what it means.) (Kidding.) The landscape seems to have shifted towards more of a woodland-savanna, and the earth has lost some of the redness. The land feels more gentle, less harsh. Although, let’s be honest, that could just be the roads talking to me.

 We arrived in Sekou Soriya to find representatives of the community waiting for us beneath a thatched gazebo. Sekou Soriya is the kind of community National Geographic would love to photograph- mud huts with tidy thatched roofs, set against the backdrop of the Kuru Hills, and a beautiful savanna forest. We gathered beneath the gazebo, where we were able to remain in cool shade for the better part of the morning. We were officially welcomed to Sekou Soriya by community representatives, and by the district chief. We were also presented with Kola nuts. Kola nuts are symbolic gifts throughout the Susu culture (and throughout West Africa). In Guinea, visitors are presented with Kola nuts so that they can take them home, and show that they were well cared for while they travelled. (I obviously ate one once we were back in Madina Oula, just to remember what they taste like. They are very bitter, but sweeten over time. They are also caffeinated. The word cola is derived from the kola nut, which used to be used in soda. They aren’t really tasty, but they give water a very sweet taste, which is enjoyable.)

 Following the presentation of kola nuts, we were told (multiple times) that we were welcome. The chief informed us more specifically that since we had left our homes and travelled so far to be here, that we should think of Sekou Soriya as our home in Guinea. I’m a sucker for stuff like that. I instantly felt right at home. We were also presented with gifts of wild honey, mango, banana, and a prepared lunch. This whole welcome process differs from the Sierra Leone side of the border, where generally we were not presented with gifts, and were expected to give Kola nuts to the chief as a sign of respect. I don’t mean to be ungracious towards Sierra Leonean hospitality, we were very welcomed to every community we visited in Sierra Leone. I’m just noting a cultural difference, as well as a potential difference in the well being of the communities on the Sierra Leone side of the border. Having gifts to give is, I think, a small sign of wealth. Aside from the gifts, people in Sekou Soriya seemed to be better dressed, better fed. Houses were in better order. There were 2 bore holes. The school was new, painted, and with a nice roof. The mosque was large, and had a tower. Provided – there are about 6 NGOs operating in this area, and all of these activities have been a result of that work.

 That said, Sekou Soriya is still dependent on rain fed agriculture, and people are working very hard to make a living. I don’t mean to make their lives sound easy. Daily life in this part of the world takes quite a lot of effort, and the differences I am observing are very minor differences. Although, I find it remarkable just how much simple things can improve upon somebodies quality of life.

 Tomorrow we head into Kholba. I’ll keep you posted. Since I very much doubt that my kola nuts will keep until I return to America, you will just have to take my word that I’m being taken care of, and from time to time even doing rather well.